Sept 15, 2019. Southern Adriatic:
Yesterday I was motoring from central albania where I spent the late nite and early morning hours anchored right in the middle of the shelf, 3 meters of green water, the fishing grounds of the lower Adriatic. The Albanians were scraping the fields as clean as they could all night. At one point I counted 25 of them on the radar return. Wakes from the trawlers added to the sea state and Grateful bounced like hell. But, after 18 hours of sailing and motoring I was too tired to care. My head hit the pillow and the the alarm 4 hours later had me at the coffee pot.
I motored on, hoping for Durres, Albania to refuel my already low diesel condition. From the distance I could see large high rises and a concrete jungle...something I haven’t encountered for almost a year now...and I felt like landing there would shatter the dream...as if I were 8 again, dad shaking me from this slumbering bliss. No...I will hide under the sheets.
As I approached, I called the customs agent, Arthur. He said it was unlikely I would get fuel that same day...too much protocol. Arthur, recognized my California accent and shared his American experience in Miami this summer. Nice to have chatter and a thread of connection, 7000 miles from ‘home’.
So, about 6 miles offshore I decided to aim for Bar, Montenegro, 12 hours north.
Low fuel...humph...pray for wind.
But the sails luffed in vein as the wind did not cooperate. So I watched the fuel gauge carefully. 8 hours later, well below 1/4 tank mark, I noticed the digital display acting erratically, and a slight bump in the engine cadence. And then, magically, as if guided, the wind went from 5 knots to 14 knots. I silenced the yanmar and the wind took grateful for a ride.
I was 15 miles offshore, and the sun was on its daily dive for the horizon, so I followed the best reach for the coast, hoping to find a sheltered cove.
I really just let nature do its thing, and I found myself in an amazing natural, secluded bay of ulcinj, Montenegro. As it turns out, this place is famous as a piracy haven from 500 BC. So I guess it was no wonder that I was greeted by a Montenegro police escort.
I was boarded and searched...ulcinj is NOT a port of entry.
I pleaded my fuel condition, and the chief studied the gauges carefully. He agreed I did the prudent thing...and respected the fact that I was a solo sailor, and circumnavigating.
He recruited a fisherman to fetch 5 gallons of Montenegro’s best diesel. I fashioned a funnel from a 10 liter plastic water bottle. Not a drop was wasted. Is cost me 30 euro, a bottle of Greek wine and a few shots of Jack.
In the bay, I was able to connect to internet..and learned from the windy app that the wind would be offshore in the morning, favorable to take me direct to bar.
I raised the hook this morning, and ghosted out, motorless, silently.
The wind is 5.5 knots 150 degrees, pushing exactly to my destination. As I write this I’m cruising at 2.1 knots. Almost a little too fast really...I don’t want to wake up.
And I got this from a good friend in my mail this morning:
“
There is no Reward in this world to settle for something you don’t want. If you settle for something you don’t want. Then you are going to be disillusioned, you will feel cheated, and you are not living life to the fullest This should be my dead fast rule. There is no reward for it and no crown in heaven waiting for me because I settled for something I really do not want. So try to take ownership for my decisions and take responsibility for it if it did not work out. Ultimately is down to me.”
Almost to Bar now. Nothing In the way.
Just water, and deeper water.
Several boats have motored by, smiling and waving in their haste.
I have 2 crew joining tonite at 7.
Then we’ll explore Montenegro till the wind is predicted to blow for brindisi on the 20th
Fixed that pesky left rear speaker today. Music is all around me now.